These are the finest plastic
coaches I have ever seen. The fluting is the best, the truck castings are excellent.
However there are some shortcomings (I hate to criticize such an excellent model). 
-
Wheelsets: On the first runs of the 46 seat
coach, 10-6 sleeper, baggage, and RPO, and all were out of gauge - too narrow.
They can be corrected and roll nicely. The wheelsets do not have to be replaced,
though many modelers are doing that. Since these cars are set up for lighting
kits, use care in wheelset modifications.
-
The extension on the end of the car where
the diaphragm is attached is too shallow compared with the prototype. -
The diaphragm spring is very strong. Standard
magnetic uncouplers will not work with these cars On other cars, fans have removed
the diaphragm and replaced it with American Limited diaphragms.
- The smooth areas of the sides of these cars have no molded
seams. The model is totally smooth.
- All cars I have
checked have proper coupler height. These cars do have a unique swinging coupler
arrangement with plastic knuckles. Those seeking to install metal Kadees will
need to do some modification.
- The underbody boxes
usually are open to the center of the car. For viewing at a low angle, modelers
will want to seal off the back sides.
Removing
the Roof The roof is held on with
clips. Care must be taken to remove them without leaving marks at the seam or
worse. 
-
Use a flat hobby knife blade to
locate the tabs and press in while lifting the roof. Be patient. Pulling too hard
will break something, but not pulling enough will not keep one location open while
you seek the next one. You will notice form the above photo that there is a gray
piece of plastic which clips to the side of the car and to the roof. That piece
helps keep the two aligned. -
Do
not remove the roof until you are read to do some work on the car. When you remove
it, then plan on painting the interior and gluing in the grabs (from the inside).
If you want lighting, do it all at the same time. |
